Ask an experienced watch collector the following question: If you had to sell all your watches and live with just one watch, what would it be? No matter how extensive, high-end, or sophisticated his or her collection maybe, chances are high the immediate reply you'll receive is, "A Rolex Daytona? Why, you ask? It's an iconic,legendary model from the world's most well-known luxury watch brand, with atimeless design that's evolved subtly since it was originally introduced nearly50 years ago in 1963.
With a robust movement equipped with a highly useful chronograph complication, it's made to be worn daily. Housed in a nearly bulletproof "Oyster?case, it's tough-as-nails, built to last several generations. Versatile styling makes it suitable for nearly all dress occasions ?looking great with jeans or a suit. On top of all that, its resale value is about as good as it gets in the world of watches. The Daytona is a compelling watch if one must boil their collection down to one. Problem is, they're not easily obtained.
This Rolex Daytona 16520 sold for $31,200 in Antiquorum's 2008 Rolex Sport Watch sale.
ADVERTISEMENTNearly 25 years after the introduction of the first self-winding Daytona, versions in stainless steel remain one of the most difficult watches to buy new from an authorized dealer. A prize that's typically reserved for a dealer's best clients, every authorized dealer I've spoken with has claimed a waiting list ranging from one to five years. Fortunately for me, thanks to Fourtané Jewelers of Carmel, CA, a world class Rolex authorized dealer that also specializes in vintage Rolex watches, I was able to get my hands on a brand new stainless steel version, fitted with a black dial ?my favorite configuration. On loan to me for a week, I'll share with you some impressions from the perspective of a vintage Rolex fan.
But first, let's take a look at the gradual evolution and incremental changes leading up to today's modern version?/p>
The fifth line of text at 12 o'clock on the dial makes it clear the Daytona is actually a "Cosmograph? and a direct descendent of Rolex's first Cosmograph chronograph, the reference 6239. Introduced in 1963, legend has it that its name was inspired by society's fascination with space travel.
The successor to a long-line of chronographs housed in "Oyster?type cases produced since 1939, the reference 6239 Cosmograph introduced two important aesthetic changes to Rolex's chronograph dials. The first was the use of inverse color schemes for the main dial and subsidiary dials ?a variant with black dial and white sub-dials, and a second variant with white dial and black sub-dials. The result was a much sportier, aggressive look compared with the monochromatic dials used on all prior Rolex chronograph wristwatches.
A Rolex Reference 6238
The second major change was the removal of the printed tachymetric scale usually found on a dial's outer circumference. Instead, Rolex engraved the tachymeter on the 6239's bezel. The two changes, it's believed, were made in order to improve the legibility of the chronograph's indicators.
A 1963 Rolex Cosmograph Ref 6239 - Notice the hashed bezel to 300 units per hour and cream colored dial - both traits of the very early Daytonas
One year later, in 1964, Rolex introduced the "Daytona?signature on the Cosmograph's dial, signifying the brand's sponsorship of the annual 24 Hours of Daytona race held in Daytona Beach, Florida. Now known as the Rolex 24 at Daytona, Rolex's sponsorship of this sports car endurance race began two years prior in 1962. The signature was first placed at 12 o'clock, under the word "Cosmograph? then by 1967, it migrated to its current position ?above the sub-dial at 6 o'clock.
A 1970 Rolex Cosmograph 6262 with
The Cosmograph Daytona's (Daytonafor short from now on) next significant evolution came in 1965, when Rolexintroduced screw-down chronograph pushers in place of pump pushers, with thereference 6240 "Oyster?Daytona. Providing an increase in water resistancecapability, when screwed down, the pushers prevent the actuation of thechronograph underwater ?a sure-fire way to get water into the movement.
Rolex Daytona 6263 with
Through approximately 1987, theDaytona remained largely unchanged, outside of some minor updates to themanual-winding, Valjoux-sourced chronograph caliber ticking inside. Based onthe reliable and well-made Valjoux caliber 72, the fact that it was manualwinding was the Daytona's Achilles heel. In an era of quartz-based ease andaccuracy, buyers did not like the hassle of winding the watch daily to keep itrunning ?especially with the added inconvenience of a screw-down windingcrown! As a result, these manually-wound Daytonas saw little demand, and wereslow sellers subject to significant discounts.
Rolex caliber 727 found in Daytona reference 6262, based on the Valjoux 72 chronograph movement.
ADVERTISEMENT The El Primero YearsFinally, in 1988, Rolex introduced aself-winding Daytona, the reference 16520 using a movement based on the ZenithCaliber 4030, originally introduced in 1969, but discontinued for several yearsuntil its production was restarted in 1986.
The Rolex caliber 4030 based on the Zenith El Primero Class 400
A great movement as manufactured by Zenith, it was the industry's only self-winding chronograph movement that met Rolex's high quality standards. Even so, Rolex extensively modified the caliber to its own specification, including:
- A new escapement with a much larger, freely sprung balance and balance spring with Breguet overcoil - a preferred, and more costly configuration for Rolex that leads to higher accuracy.
- A reduction in the balance's oscillation rate from a speedy 36,000 beats per hour to a more relaxed 28,800 beats per houre - requiring less frequent service.
- Elimination of the date function.
Retaining just 50% of the Zenith caliber 400's parts, the final result was the Rolex caliber 4030.
Rolex Daytona reference 16520 with self-winding caliber 4030
With the reference 16520 camethe introduction of a sapphire crystal and several aesthetic changes from theprior generation. Influenced by Rolex's other contemporary sports watches likethe Submariner, the case diameter grew from 37 mm to 40 mm. The surfaces of thedials were now lacquered and glossy versus matte (black) or metallic (silver),and were adorned with applied metal hour markers inlaid with luminous material.Finally, the sub-dials featured a thin outer track of an opposing color, eachringed with a metallic edge.
The sum of these changes evolved the Daytona from a functional, subdued tool watch to an impressive statementpiece.It was an immediate success. Rolex's timing was perfect ?wristwatch collecting was at an all-time high in 1988. With the discontinuation of the manually wound Daytonas, and the excitement surrounding the 16520's launch, the demand for both models skyrocketed. Dealers and enthusiasts quickly began hoarding the new model, which was produced in limited numbers due to the use of an outsourced movement. They could only be purchased through secondary channels, at prices up to double the suggested retail.
Even though the 16520 incorporated a new movement and was by all measures a spectacular success, for Rolex, one significant weakness remained. Unlike all other movements used by Rolex at the time, the caliber 4030 was not a 100% in-house design. The Daytona, therefore, was the last model in Rolex's collection to be fitted with a foreign-sourced caliber. Twelve years later, this situation finally was rectified.
In Part 2 of the series, Paul takes us through the excellent Caliber 4130.
Rolex A Vintage Breitling Chronograph With a Vintage Replica Rolex Daytona Movement 1274